About four years ago I absentmindedly spent time planning a dream overland trip from the UK to Australia. A key part of this route was travelling overland through Turkey to the Caucasus – Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan – before catching a ferry across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan, and on – through the Stans – to Asia and beyond. Even at that time Georgia and its capital Tbilisi conjured up to me some strange, mystical land, wedged between the boundaries of West and East – Istanbul, the Ural Mountains – a strange outpost of European culture in geographical Asia. Perhaps this was a very reductive way of considering the region. I didn’t know much, if anything, about the country, yet I felt it would be an interesting place to visit. Fast-forward several years and my trip to Georgia finally happened – not part of a grand overland voyage to Oz – but as a two-week solo journey that also took in neighbouring Armenia.